Art Jewelry and Jewels

With around 150 carefully selected pieces, the auction on December 5, 2024, will present important names in author jewelry and refined jewelry pieces.

Claude Lalanne's works are delicate, almost poetic, yet expressive. In the field of jewelry, sculptor and designer found a unique form of expression that continues to captivate collectors to this day. Necklaces, bracelets, and brooches appear to grow fantastically from the body—a symbiosis of human and nature. We are delighted to offer three pieces in this auction, which also appear on the cover of the catalog. Among them is an impressive necklace with a matching bracelet adorned with currant motifs (Lots 819 and 820, estimated at €6,500 - €7,500 and €4,000 - €5,000, respectively), as well as five extraordinary casts of fingertips (Lot 821, estimated at €6,000 - €8,000).

In 1969, Claude Lalanne collaborated with Yves Saint Laurent for the fashion house's Fall/Winter Haute Couture collection. For this, Lalanne took body casts of model Veruschka in her studio and created body jewelry that could be worn like a second skin. Alongside two iconic busts, she crafted fingertip casts adorned with intricate vines, sprouting leaves, and flowers, transforming them into surreal, unique jewelry pieces.

Giampaolo Babetto, Manfred Bischoff, David Bielander, Helen Britton, Peter Chang, Georg Dobler, Hermann Jünger, Gerd Rothmann, Robert Smit, Annamaria Zanella—the author jewelry selection leaves nothing to be desired for connoisseurs. For newcomers, the wide selection offers a great opportunity to dive into the subject.

The illusion can sometimes deceive, as shown by the "Corrugated Cardboard" bracelet by David Bielander (Lot 882, estimated at €4,000 - €5,000). What appears at first glance to be delicate cardboard is, in fact, a stable silver creation that questions the obviousness of the material.

We have once again secured several pieces by Munich jewelry artist and former academy professor Hermann Jünger. His necklace boxes, highly sought-after yet rarely appearing on the market, are particularly desirable. We are delighted to offer two examples. With the "Jünger Box," Hermann Jünger realized a serial idea that does not lack individuality. The various geometric pendants allow the wearer to design their own necklace. While the individual elements repeat in material and shape, each box is unique. Arranged in the black box, the jewelry pieces create a graphic composition even when unworn (Lots 857 and 858, estimated at €6,000 - €7,000 each).

A spectacular necklace by Johann Müllerperth demonstrates how precise craftsmanship and creative freedom can merge. Sawed geometric shapes and flowing lines give this unique piece of jewelry its dynamic quality. With its shape and movable links, the necklace fits perfectly to the body (Lot 900, €10,000 - €12,000).

High-quality goldsmith work and gemstones in all colors await in the jewelry chapter.

For a glamorous appearance, striking cocktail earrings with diamonds and blue sapphires (Lot 793, estimated at €8,500 - €11,000) or with diamonds and vibrant green tsavorites (Lot 796, estimated at €6,500 - €8,500) are sure to dazzle.

In the case of diamonds, color also plays a special role. Diamonds are rarely pure in color and often show one or more overtones that can be yellowish, orange, brownish, greenish, reddish, pink, purple, or gray. The unique "Charming" bracelet especially showcases this diversity. Thirty-three diamonds in various cuts adorn the delicate chain and impress with their range of natural tones—an extraordinary piece of jewelry (Lot 811, estimated at €10,000 - €15,000).

The auction concludes with vintage designer fashion and accessories. A highlight here is the cognac-colored "Birkin Bag," which is likely to be on many wish lists (Lot 918, estimated at €6,000 - €9,000).

All lots can be viewed during the preview from November 28 to December 2. Our expert Nadine Becker will be available for questions and condition reports.

Quittenbaum brought the auction year 2024 to a successful close with author's jewelry and jewelry on 5 December.

In the jewelry section, bracelets with diamonds were in particular demand, which may well make some eyes sparkle under the Christmas tree. Every bidder got their taste of different eras and styles. The Art Déco platinum bracelet with a total of 10 carats of diamonds in wonderful brilliance (lot 799) was knocked down for €11,000 and will now make an impressive appearance on the wrist of its new owner. A simpler Rivière bracelet (lot 812), which nevertheless impresses with its naturally colored diamonds in a gradient, changed hands for €5,000 after eager bidding.

However, the greatest interest was shown in author's jewelry, which Quittenbaum has offered its own stage for 7 years now. With works by Gerd Rothmann, Annamaria Zanella, Giampaolo Babetto, Helen Britton and David Bielander, all collectors and enthusiasts were offered a diverse selection.

The auction's catalog cover already announced the favorites and proved to be right. The three lots by French artist Claude Lalanne were in the spotlight of the evening. The 'Groseilles' bangle and necklace (lots 820 and 819) with a delicate reddish patina were knocked down for €4,000 and €9,500 respectively and found their new owners in the USA. The five unique finger casts with botanical ornaments (lot 821) caused particular excitement in the auction room. Bidders on all platforms and on the telephone tried to win the lot, which was called at €5,000. With a hammer price of €21,000, a private collection finally prevailed and secured a piece of contemporary history.

Rarity was especially important to the bidders. Works by Peter Chang, for example, only very rarely come onto the market. It was therefore not surprising that several interested parties focused on the brooch (lot 894) by the artist, who passed away in 2017. Bidding starting at €800, the price multiplied until the hammer finally fell at €4,800. A unique brooch by Arnaldo Pomodoro (lot 866) also attracted several bidders. The piece of jewelry made of yellow and white gold with rubies and emeralds went from €4,600 to €8,000.

Unsold items can still be found in our post auction sale until January 10, 2025. We look forward to receiving your consignments for the New Year.